Hellfire Caves of West Wycombe
It is said that the caves have existed from a very early time in history but nobody can pinpoint how far ago exactly. All that is known for sure was that they were used for querying chalk for local use. They were not looked after very well and fell into a derelict state. That is until Sir Francis Dashwood had an idea to reopen the mines to help relieve the strain of poverty in the local populace due to bad harvests between 1748-1750. He paid the workers one shilling a day, which was enough to survive and keep going during those harsh and tough times. In due course the caves have been extended deeper underground. Now the caves go as far down as 250m or a quarter of a mile. They consist of tunnels and chambers throughout, and the deeper you go down the colder the air gets, so either this could be a welcome change during a hot summer day or it could be sending a chill down your spine with something more ominous on your mind. Talks of ghosts have always accompanied these caves and around 1951 a local vicar Father Allen, was so affected by the caves that he was quoted by the Daily Mirror as having said;
“My tummy wobbles like a jelly every time I pass the entrance.”
And then he followed by a sermon denouncing the evil that was emanating from the caves. This only helped the popularity of the caves and spurred a new surge of visitors to the place. In 1951 the 11th Baron reopened the caves for tourists for a fee of one shilling and a free candle to roam the caves.
Lord Dashwood was a man of prominence, and he liked to gather his friends often to discuss politics and interests as well as party (or so the rumours say). He started calling these groups The Knights of Sir Francis of Wycombe, later named the Hell-Fire Club. All sorts of things were said to have happened during these gatherings, rituals, sacrifices, orgies. But of course there is no way to prove what actually happened, a secret society is secret for a reason.
And here dear Diary I will begin describing my experience during a visit to these caves.
I will confess this was not my first time visiting, second in fact but I wanted to show them to my old and dear school friend K as we were going to be in the area to later meet with our other mutual school friend J (our trio were always close and stayed so even after graduating) I have wonderful friends.
When I mentioned to K that we could go see the Hellfire caves in Wycombe I was met with enthusiasm for the adventure. We quickly made arrangements, and everything was agreed on. Only when does a plan ever go to plan?
Firstly we ended up parking at different locations. I was below the hill at an allocated parking spot specifically for visitors while K managed to find a spot at the top of the hill right next to the entrance. Be advised that even though there are parking spots, there are very few and if you’re not a confident driver I don’t recommend parking there (steep slopes). The short walk is pleasant though not very scenic. There is a trodden footpath cut into the hill where people continuously trek so the ground is permanently devoid of any growth, but at least you know where you’re going. Having reached the top, you buy your tokens at the little souvenir shop on your left, but no candles. You walk in through the entrance by slotting your token onto the three pronged barrier which greets you like a gaping mouth into Aladdin’s cave. Oh what wondrous treasures await for you beyond!
At first you think nothing much, as in this is not so spooky after all. Whist you have the natural light you get to read the history of the caves and general goings on of the time to set the scene. You walk on, ceiling is high you have fresh air, so you don’t feel claustrophobic, yet. The caves are tunnels dug out by man from chalk making the walls off white and pasty. With each step you take, it gets cooler, darker, steeper, narrower and creepier. But that last one is only as wild as your imagination. When you’re exploring the caves you’re met with a few wax figures who add to the ambience of uneasiness. They’re placed in alcoves along the tunnels like a frozen time in history, all the while K and I are linked arms to “stay warm and not slip on the descent.” Yes, that is what I am going to go with. Ahem.
You might think that you could get lost here, but not really. There is only one exit and that is the way you came in. There are maps of your current location dotted here and there, so even the most anxious are able to find their way.
Dim lit and a cool damp smell makes it easier to imagine that you are walking into a forbidden secret society den. The sounds echoing from somewhere that turn out to be recordings of reenactment scenes of the past, coupled with the wax figures are both comforting and unnerving. I am still undecided if silence would make it eerier. There are parts of this man made cave that are quiet and all you hear is the occasional drop of water from the stalactite and the extortion of your own voice when you speak to your companion. You find yourself talking in hushed voices as if indeed you were sharing secrets. The best acoustics are at the Banqueting hall. The domed ceiling bounces off any sounds made so you hear a clear echo back.
banqueting hall
For fun you can stand right in the middle of the hall and call out or sing to marvel at the sounds.
The best part of the caves, for me at least, is the underground river Styx. It is truly magical. Dramatic lighting certainly helps with the ambience as you absorb the beauty of nature and realise that it never ceases to amaze you.
the river styx amongst the stalactites and stalagmites
Doesn’t it just look like a gaping mouth of a dragon, or the entrance to Aladdin’s cave? Oh what mysteries must it hold! And yes I know I’ve said it before.
The river also acts as a point of passage where you cross to enter the inner sanctity of the Hellfire club. As you reach the end of the tunnel you also find yourself at the foot of the Inner Temple, it is smaller than you might envision and looks nothing like a traditional church (which is what I visualised). High ceilinged alcove and a scene set up to look like we have just snuck up on the Club right in the middle of their celebrations. Far more pleasant than a sacrifice but remember that no one actually knew what was going on apart from the participants. You can’t actually go inside the Temple, and maybe it’s for the best, just in case. You never know what you might accidentally take back with you to the surface (I am talking about otherworldly entities, not a sudden act of kleptomania). Once you have had your fill, it os time to turn around and make your way back to the entrance. Remember that you can’t get lost, the path is the same by which you came.
The tour being over you may wish to revisit the shop where you have purchased your entrance token. There you will find souvenirs and memorabilia of for your visit, as well as further reading about the caves and West Wycombe House and Park, home to the Dashwood family. To this day the family still own and live at the property, which makes me incredibly in awe of them. But don’t be discouraged that you can never see the property. The family have partnered with National Trust so come 1st April you will be able to visit the grounds and from 2nd June the house will open it’s doors as well. However if you can’t wait for that long watch Austenland, a romantic comedy which was filmed in the house and grounds. Another snipped of the house can be seen in The Importance of Being Earnest (2002) with a wonderfully rich cast which include Rupert Everett, Colin Firth, Francis O’connor, Reese Witherspoon, Judy Dench and more.
More information about the estate and the family through National Trust can be found here.
The West Wycombe Park will open 1st April 2019, and the House on Sunday 2nd June.
For opening times and prices for Hellfire Caves click here.
The caves are currently closed for maintenance but will reopen in April. Please visit the site for updates and more in-depth reading about the history of the caves.
Have a nice trip!
